Niagara Wine Trail

Tending the vineyards of growth

A harsh winter, followed by spring’s nagging rains, has made summer seem a long way off as Don DeMaison tends his five acres of vinifera grapes in Sanborn.

But as a lifelong farmer on the verge of opening a new business on the Niagara Wine Trail, he’s philosophical.

“Welcome to the wacky world of agriculture,” he said as he prepared to spray his grapes yet again last week to prevent mildew and rot. “Every year has its challenges.”

DeMaison hopes to open Long Cliff Vineyard&Winery, at 3617 Lower Mountain Road, later this summer. He will join Erik and Shane Gustafson, who also plan to join the Wine Trail this summer, with the opening of A Gust of Sun Winery & Vineyard at 4515 Baer Road in Ransomville. The Gustafsons hope to open their winery in early July.

And yet a third new Wine Trail entry— Midnight Run Wine Cellars at 3301 Brayley Road, Wilson — hopes to open this fall, according to owner Michael Palczynski.

That will bring the number of wineries on the Niagara Wine Trail to 16.

DeMaison said his buildings are “90 percent complete.”

“We’re working on the tasting room right now and will hopefully open in August. Our federal license is in the works and, once we have that, the state will issue a temporary license.”

Despite capricious Mother Nature, DeMaison pursues his dream because “the experience of being able to talk to the growers, see the operations and feel a part of agriculture — it will be a learning experience for me, and I hope, for everyone who walks through my door.”

DeMaison is a retiree, whereas the Gustafsons are in their early 30s, with a 2-month-old son, Caspian, but they all are in the final phases of seeing a dream become a reality in coming weeks.

Erik Gustafson is a doctoral candidate in chemistry education and teaches at Erie Community College, while his wife, Shane, is a quality-control manager for Kent Nutrition Group in Arcade. The couple followed a circuitous route to their Ransomville property, settling in just last November.

Erik hails from Hamlin, outside Rochester, while Shane is from Orlando. They met at Purdue University in Indiana and chose Western New York over California to start a winery while working, dreaming and making their own wine at home, in Iowa.

Because of their backgrounds, the Gustafsons may employ a more scientific approach in creating wine, but Erik also recalled that he and Shane enjoyed hosting many a wine and cheese party for friends through the years, sampling many varieties before settling on favorites.

Niagara Wine Trail getting cheesey - Dowd on Drinks - Bill Dowd ...

Members of the Niagara Wine Trail are taking advantage of June being National Dairy Month to hold a trail-wide event with wine and cheese pairings.

Each participating winery has selected a specific cheese to offer visitors on the long Father’s Day weekend of June 17-19.

Pre-event tickets, available at the wineries, are $20 per person, plus tax. Tickets include a wine glass at the starting winery — visitors may choose any winery as stop No. 1 — plus a cheese sample at all the wineries and is good all three days. Tickets will be available at the door for $25 per person plus tax.

Hours on Friday, June 17, are noon to 6 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., and Sunday noon to 6 p.m.

The following cheeses, and their ages when appropriate, that will be available from Yancey’s Fancy Cheeses, the overall sponsor:

Arrowhead Spring: Sharp Cheddar, Yellow (9 months). Leonard Oakes Estate: Extra Sharp Cheddar, Yellow (12 months). Black Willow Winery: XXX-tra Sharp Cheddar, White (18 months). Freedom Run Winery: XXX-tra Sharp Cheddar, Yellow (18 months). Victorianbourg Wine Estate: Aalsbruk Gouda. Schulze Winery: Bergenost. Eveningside Vineyards: Aalsbruk Smoked Gouda. Chateau Niagara Winery: Double Cream Cheddar. Honeymoon Trail Winery: Aged Cheddar. Vizcarra Vineyards: Aged Cheddar with Hot Wasabi Horseradish. Niagara Landing: Oven-Roasted Tomato Cheddar. Marjim Manor Winery: Norwegian Dill & Herb-Crusted Double Cream Cheddar.

Additional details are available online or by calling (716) 772-2211.

Get all the latest news on my Upstate Restaurant Examiner column and check out what’s coming up on my NY Drinks Events Calendar .